How to Make Mountains and Hills For Your Model Railroad

Once you've got a train layout set up on a flat table, you might want to make it more interesting by adding some mountains and hills. There are a couple of ways to do this, and they are both easy.

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Papier-Mâché Method

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If your layout is temporary, or you don't want to spend much money, you can use the papier-mâché method. Basically, you just scrunch up some newspapers into the general shape of the hill or mountain, then cover them with sheets of newspaper dipped in papier-mâché paste.

The traditional method of making papier-mâché paste is to add one part water to one part flour. Some people prefer to boil the paste, saying that it makes the consistency smoother. Water to flour ratio is changed to five parts water to one part flour in this case. Other people use a three to one or a one to one ratio of water and polyvinyl acetate wood glue. Still others say that starch makes a fine paste. Adding a dash of cinnamon to the mixture gives the paste a pleasant smell; adding a dash of salt and sugar reduces the chances of the product developing mould.

You simply dip sheets of newspaper (fold them a couple of times to make them thicker) in the paste and drape them over the scrunched up newspapers. The sheets will be soft and pliable, so mould them into hills and valleys as you like. Let the papier-mâché dry overnight. You will find that it is hard and rigid, like a piñata.

Paint it with a water-based paint in shades of green (for grass) and brown (for dirt) and grey (for rock). You can also use spray paint, but make sure it is matte, not glossy, paint. While the paint is still wet, sprinkle some grass (available at the hobby shop) or green-coloured sawdust. When the paint is dry, add some lichen for bushes and trees (also available at any hobby shop).

Window Screening and Wooden Supports

If your train layout is permanent, a more durable method of making mountains and hills is to use screening and wooden supports. This also has the advantage that you can run tracks on the mountain itself, providing you make the appropriate supports. Basically, you cut wooden support blocks to the appropriate size, then drape window screening (called "fly screen" in Australia) over the blocks, stapling the screen to the blocks. You should fasten the blocks to the table with screws or nails first, so they don't move around.

If you want, you can build a second track bed around or through the mountain, elevated above the table. Simply use support blocks and plywood to make a rigid base for the track.

Once the screening is in place, pinch it in places to make rugged edges, ditches, and valleys. Then mix up some common household plaster (available at any hardware store to fix holes in a plaster wall) and slobber it over the screen. There is no need to be careful, just make sure all the screen is covered. A thicker plaster mix works much better than a thin mix, as the latter allows the screen to show through.

When you get to the rugged vertical bits, use horizontal strokes of a knife to simulate rock cuts. Let the plaster dry overnight and then paint as described above.

Finally, finish it off with lichen bushes and trees as appropriate.

Don't Forget Access

When you are deciding how big to make your mountain, and where to place it, also think about derailments. Murphy's Law guarantees that, at some point, your train is going to derail in the tunnel through your mountain. Make sure the tunnel entrance is large enough so you can reach in and get your train out.

Or consider these alternatives: If you have made a papier-mâché mountain, and not glued it to the table, you can simply lift it off the table.

If you have made a permanent wood block and wire screen mountain, then consider cutting access holes in the table, below the mountain, so you can reach in and right the train or remove it. Don't make the holes too close to the track, because if the train does derail at that spot, you don't want it to fall through the hole onto the floor.

How to Make Mountains and Hills For Your Model Railroad
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How to Make Homemade Sausage With a Meat Grinder

Making homemade sausage is not as daunting and difficult as it may sound. Sausage is really just a mixture of ground meat, fat, salt, pepper, other spices, herbs, onions, peppers or other diced foods. Have you ground your own hamburger meat? If so, making homemade sausage is just a few easy steps before grinding the meat.

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The best sausage balances the ratio of meat, fat and spices. Store bought sausage can contain up to 50% fat, however, you can reduce the fat amount to 25% to 35%, if desired, and still produce great tasting sausage. Sausage fat below 20% is not recommended as a certain amount of fat is needed to impart good flavor and help bind the meat links together.

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Equipment Needed

A meat grinder. If desired, a sausage stuffer and sausage casings. You do not have to use a sausage stuffer if making patties, however if making links, a sausage stuffer aids in producing well formed, tight links. Sharp knives Large bowls

Sausage Preparation

Put your meat in the freezer for up to 1-2 hours to get the meat very cold. Sausage is typically made with pork meat, but lamb, beef or wild game can also be used. Cut your meat and fat into 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch slices. Put the slices into a bowl surrounded with ice to keep the meat cold. After cutting all the meat, mix the meat, fat and your desired spices together. Put the meat mixture back in the freezer for up to 30 minutes. Grind the meat mixture in your meat grinder. Use a medium to coarse grinding plate. If making sausage patties, form the ground meat into the patties and refrigerate before use. If making links, place a casing onto the sausage stuffer's tube. Leave a tail of at least 6 inches off the end of the tube for tieing off later. Let the sausage come out of the sausage stuffer in one long coil, you will make the actual links after you have extruded all of the meat. Make the links. With two hands, pinch off what will become two links and tightly spin the casing at both ends. Work the links until they are pretty tight. Tie off the excess 6 inches of casing that you previously allowed for. Refrigerate the links until you are ready to cook and eat.

How to Make Homemade Sausage With a Meat Grinder
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Creating Perfect Ribs in Your Smoker

In all honesty, I love ribs, but I hate the ribs that the vast majority of establishments serve. Rarely do I get ribs that are done properly as most tend to be either dry and leathery, or soft and mushy. Worst part is, most of these establishments believe that slathering the ribs in a barbecue sauce will bring them back to edible status. Well they are wrong...all it serves to do is add to my frustration by making the meal messy.

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While very few, if any, chefs, pit masters, or home-cooks strive to achieve a leathery finish, you do hear the statement that "falling off the bone" is the way to go. While I agree that tender and soft is the ultimate goal, any competition rib that completely falls off the bone is considered completely over-done. A truly perfect rib will adhere to the bone, but fall off when tugged. So my goal with this post is to show you how to achieve a perfect rib at home. The key to good ribs has four components - the rub, the smoke, the heat, and the time. Let's begin with the rub.

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The point of using a rub is to develop a flavor base and to create a crust or bark on the ribs. Depending on where you go and whom you talk to, the rubs you have to choose from will reflect regional influences. Some will be hot and spicy, whereas others will be sweeter. I am partial to the Pork and Poultry Blend from Caroline's Rub, which has a more typical Texas flavor - more savory than sweet. I like sweet, don't get me wrong, but I prefer my ribs with more kick than candy, so I let my wood choice add the sweetness. Before applying the rub, the first thing I do is remove the thin skin that covers the back side of the ribs. Using a filet knife, I loosen it from one end, grip it with a paper towel, and then pull it off in one easy motion. While you don't absolutely have to remove this skin, taking a few extra seconds to do so will definitely improve the tenderness of your final outcome. I then rinse and thoroughly dry the ribs, and follow that with a thorough coating of my chosen dry rub. How much you use, will entirely depend upon you. I like a thicker coating, some will prefer less. Next take the coated ribs, and tightly wrap them in plastic wrap, place in the refrigerator and let sit for at least 3 hours. This will give the rub time to penetrate and flavor the ribs. Once the ribs have sat, remove from the refrigerator and allow them to return to room temperature before putting on the smoker.

While the rub adds an immediate kick of flavor, the smoke you choose will work to complement the rub, and add that flavor we all recognize as barbecue. With meats such as pork ribs, I like to kiss the meat with smoke from pecan and cherry woods. The pecan is very similar to hickory in flavor, without the strong bite that can sometimes overpower the lighter meat of the ribs. The addition of cherry wood to the mix serves to work with the pecan to sweeten the meat.

Next factor for success is heat. While there are a thousand ways to cook ribs, many of which yield a truly great product, I prefer slow smoked ribs. Nothing gets my blood pumping like the smell of slow smoked barbecue. I have always found that higher temperatures result in tougher ribs, so my goal is to maintain a low heat level of around 215F to 225F in the smoker (or in your oven at home). This temperature range has yet to fail me. Once I have the smoker where it consistently holds the temperature within this range, I will place the ribs standing in a rib rack, inside for cooking.

Finally, the last factor for creating successful ribs is the cooking time. While many folks insert a thermometer in their ribs to determine doneness, I prefer simply watching the bones. For an average rack of baby back ribs, you can assume a cooking time of between 3 ½ and 4 hours at the temperatures I recommend. The easiest way for me to determine if my ribs are done is to perform two steps, starting with the first at the 3 hour mark - look at the bones. If I have a good ¼ - ½ inch of bone showing, I then perform step two, which is to take a toothpick and insert into the meat. If it slides through will little resistance, like going through butter, the ribs are done. You will want to watch them closely as they will go from done to overdone fairly quick.

Once cooked, I like to let the ribs rest for at least 10 minutes to allow the juiced to evenly distribute themselves within the meat, which will keep things tender and moist. Like I said earlier, I don't like messy, so I tend to serve the ribs dry, with a side of my favorite barbecue sauce for dipping.

Following this method has consistently provided me with ribs that are succulent, moist, and truly satisfying.

Creating Perfect Ribs in Your Smoker
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Piranha Electric Fillet Knife

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The search for a true saltwater fillet knife has ended with the introduction of the new Saltwater Piranha from Mister Twister, the industry's pioneer in electric fish cleaning technology. Every bit as rugged as the classic Mister Twister Electric Fisherman, the Saltwater Piranha's increased cutting surface is engineered to handle the tough scales and skin of many saltwater fish species. While the Saltwater Piranha features 25% more torque and 15% more speed than most other electric knives, the real key to its cutting power is in its 8" heavy duty stainless steel blade; hundreds of serrations will cut through just about anything. More power, more torque, and more speed couple-up to truly make the Saltwater Piranha, "Bad to the bone!" The Mister Twister Saltwater Piranha...Superior mechanics means superior results!



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How to Cook Cornish Hens

My family loves it when I cook Cornish hens for them. Because of their diminutive size compared to other chickens, the kids think they’re cute. We all find the taste to be a grade above most other kinds of chicken, too.

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What most people in the United States know as a Cornish hen is really a cross-breed of poultry created from Cornish chickens and White Rock chickens. Technically, then, it should be called a Rock Cornish hen (or, to draw the name out even further, a Rock Cornish game hen).

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The Rock Cornish hens found in your supermarket usually will be of a size to provide about 1 serving of meat per person. Obviously, this makes it a cinch to determine how many to buy. Serving four? Purchase four hens. Cooking for a church picnic of a hundred folks? You’ll need a hundred of these little birds (plus a few to cover the people who will insist on seconds). And so on.

Rock Cornish hens are best when oven-roasted. Roasting time varies, depending on the size and number of birds. A minimum time is 20 minutes, but most will require between 25 and 35 minutes and some will need 40 or 45 minutes. A good sign the hen is done is when you can stick a sharp knife or fork tine into it and the juices from it run clear.

You can roast Rock Cornish hens as they come straight from the butcher or supermarket, but it’s better to rub them with herbs and spices first. Try thyme or rosemary along with a little salt and fresh-ground black pepper. Some cooks like to baste their hens with melted butter—this will help to brown it and will also add extra flavor. As the hen cooks, juices will collect in the oven pan. From time to time, just scoop up these juices and pour them over the bird to keep it from drying it.

How to Cook Cornish Hens
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Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener

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Work Sharp’s WSKTS knife and tool sharpener is specially designed to sharpen any number of knives and tools in your collection. Thanks to its flexible abrasive belts, the WSKTS sharpens knives with straight blades, serrated blades, and any other silhouette or sort of blade. Get quality-grade sharpening functionality in your own shop or job site with the WSKTS’s precision-sharpening guides that consistently hone the correct angle needed.

At a Glance
WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener At a Glance:

  • Sharpens any and every knife quickly and efficiently

  • Easily replaceable abrasive grit belts

  • Precision sharpening guides for consistent results

  • Won’t burn or damage blade steel
At a Glance
WSKTS knife and tool sharpener
Work Sharp's WSKTS knife and tool sharpener delivers professional-
grade razor-sharp edges on your blades (view larger).
Engineered for Consistent Professional-Grade Results
The WSKTS employs flexible abrasive belts to create a convex edge that is guarantees the sharpest edge for your knives and other tools with blades. Between these belts and the precision sharpening guides, this sharpener promises exceedingly sharp blades with ease, speed, and consistency. It allows tradespeople and hobbyists alike to get professional-grade razor-sharp edges on their own at home, in the workshop, or on the job site.

Sharpening Guides for Accurate Angles
The WSKTS’s precision angle sharpening guides assure that users get the correct angle every time. Included with purchase is a 50-degree angle guide for hunting and outdoor knives (25 degrees per bevel) and a 40-degree angle guide for thinner blades and kitchen knives (20 degrees per bevel). All a user has to do is set the knife in the guide and pull it through for a razor-sharp edge. (The outdoor knife guide also works well for scissor and serrated-blade sharpening.)

Designed for Versatility and Portability
In addition to knives and tools with straight and serrated blades, this sharpener also refines curved knives, tanto blades, filet knives, gut hooks, and more. Garden pruners, lawn mower blades, shovels, and other household and yard tools are also easily sharpened with the WSKTS. It even works as a handheld detail grinder for light-duty grinding and deburring projects. Plus, it can be used with a 12-volt power inverter for use at tailgates, RV sites and camping grounds.

What's in the Box
One Work Sharp WSKTS knife and tool sharpener, two P80 coarse belts, two P220 medium belts, two 6000 fine belts, one 40-degree kitchen knife sharpening guide, one 50-degree outdoor knife guide (including serrated knife guide and scissor guide), a user’s manual, and an instructional DVD.


WSKTS knife and tool sharpenerWSKTS knife and tool sharpenerWSKTS knife and tool sharpener
The WSKTS consistently sharpens a wide range items, from knife blades to shovel edges (click each to enlarge).




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